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Mounting a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, however it does call for solid plumbing, carpentry, as well as occasionally, tiling skills. Replacing an old tub with a brand-new one is also a moderately challenging job. If the old bathtub is conveniently accessible, the job can relocate easily; if you need to open up a wall to remove the old tub as well as place the brand-new bath tub, the job is a lot harder. In either case, the project is within a house handyman's skills, although you will certainly require an assistant to vacate the old bathtub and also embeded in the brand-new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job as well as are comfortable attempting it. Instead of employing a service provider to take control of a halfway-completed job, it is far better to take into consideration using one before you begin. Possibilities are you might require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This article will help you install a new tub in your shower room if you have already bought a new bathtub and also do not require to transform the plan of your previous supply of water pipes.
Your tools and material checklist must make up the following:
Getting ready for the Setup
First of all, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if called for) according to the supplier's guidelines. Next off, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When suitable the tap block, it is essential to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom as well as the faucets. On a plastic bathroom, it is additionally reasonable to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to avoid strain on the bath tub.
Fit the versatile tap connectors to the bottom of the two faucets making use of 2 nuts as well as olives (in some cases supplied with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet hole, and then pass the electrical outlet via the hole in the bath. Make use of the nut provided by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Analyze the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the adaptable overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which must be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you make use of all of the supplied washing machines.
Link the trap to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the tub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, as well as screw on the trap to the electrical outlet. Connect all-time low of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bath need to currently be ready to be suited its last setting.
Removing Old Taps
If you require to replace old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, after that the first thing you must do is disconnect the water. After doing so, switch on the taps to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The procedure of removing the existing faucets can be fairly troublesome due to the limited accessibility that is commonly the case.
Make use of a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to reverse the nut that links the supply pipes to the faucets. Have a cloth prepared for the remaining water that will come from the pipelines. Once the supply pipelines have been eliminated, make use of the same device to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to quit the solitary taps from transforming during this procedure. Once the faucets have been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleansed of any old securing compound.
Before moving on to fit the new faucets, compare the pipeline links on the old faucets to the new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the brand-new taps, after that a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.
Installing the Tub
Using both wooden boards under its feet, position the bathtub in the called for position. The wood boards are useful in equally spreading the weight of the tub over the area of the boards rather than concentrating all the weight onto four little factors.
The next goal is to make certain that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be accomplished by examining the level and changing the feet on the bath tub until the spirit level checks out degree.
To mount taps, fit the bottom of the outermost adaptable tap connector to the proper supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; after that do the same for the other faucet.
Activate the water supply and inspect all joints as well as brand-new pipework for leakages and tighten them if required. Fill up the tub as well as additionally check the overflow outlet as well as the typical electrical outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, fix the bath paneling as described in the producer's user's manual. Tiling and also securing around the bathtub should wait up until the bath tub has actually been made use of at least once as this will settle it into its final position.
Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic port to avoid damage to the thread. One end of the port fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end offers a link to the current supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will need decreasing couplers, which links the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in area in between the faucet as well as the sink. Protect the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the faucet is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The previous kind needs to be attached to the faucet finishes initially, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been attached.
Tiling Around the Bath tub
In the location where the bathroom satisfies the ceramic tile, it is required to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the installation can relocate sufficient to break a stiff seal, triggering the water to penetrate the wall between the bathroom and also the tiling, causing problems with dampness and also feasible leaks to the ceiling below.
You can pick from a range of coloured sealants to assimilate your fixtures and installations. They are marketed in tubes as well as cartridges, and are capable of securing spaces as much as a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a bigger space to fill, you can fill it with spins of drenched paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always load the bathtub with water prior to sealing, to permit the motion experienced when the tub is in usage. The sealant can fracture rather very early if you do not take into account this motion before securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant floor tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also cut to dimension, are also conveniently available on the market. It is suggested to fit the ceramic tiles using waterproof or waterproof sticky and cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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